Wednesday, 30 January 2013

Honey Preparation

              Honey is a quick energy giving food recommended by athletes,horse an dog trainers. Pollen  is a male element present in  the flowering plant,which contains 35% protein,15-20%o amino acids. The important enzymes in honey are Diastase, Invertase, Lipase etc. all with different jobs to do. Diastase converts starch to sugar. Invertase converts cane sugar into Dextrose and Levulose while Lipase breaks down fats.



These enzymes are also referred to as ferments for food digestion and must be preserved - they are very sensitive to heat. At 50°C (120°F) they are destroyed in about 4 hours. Honey should not be heated above 44°C (112°F) for any length of time.

Granulation

Granulation is a perfectly normal progression for all honey types. The rate of granulation varies with the moisture content and the source of the honey.

In general, on the Dextose/Levulose ratio - the higher the Dextrose content in honey the more likely it is to granulate quickly. The ideal temperature for granulation is 14oC (57o F). Under that, the rate of granulation decreases. Naturally granulated honey generally contains coarse granules and is not attractive to the consumer.

Fermentation

Honey with a moisture content in excess of 20% is very liable to ferment while honey with 17-18% moisture will rarely ferment unless it absorbs extra moisture when stored unsealed in a humid atmosphere. Hence the need to take off honey only when it is properly ripened and sealed by the bees.

It should be stored in dry conditions and when extracted, packed and sealed in air tight containers in a cool room, shed or even outdoors. There is no way in which fermented honey can be restored as a food product. Furthermore it should never be fed back to bees, as this would cause dysentery.

Heating Honey

Honey for market or shows must be properly strained and to do this it is necessary to heat the honey. Honey will not normally strain through fine mesh or muslin as it is taken from the extractor, so the beekeeper must devise his/her own system. For general use a warming cabinet with an electric bulb and thermostat to control the temperature at or below 40°C (104°F) is very cheap to construct and very effective.



Otherwise it may be necessary to heat small lots by placing the containers of honey in a larger container of water. Stir the honey gently to avoid over heating. Remember that honey is a poor heat conductor and if left without stirring can overheat around the edges of the container.

Extracting Room

Most small beekeepers have no special extracting room as such and resort to using the kitchen or scullery for the purpose of storing and extracting. It is well to remember that the room for storage and extraction must be absolutely bee proof. At time of extraction, usually in August, bees and wasps are on wing and will very soon take over if an entry is available. The same precautions against robbing are necessary in any room or special honey house.

Heat in the extracting room is absolutely essential and a temperature of 30 -32°C (86-90°F) is recommended to ensure efficient extraction. I always advise small beekeepers to remove the number of supers they can extract in the evening and extract them while still warm. Finally the utmost care should be taken to keep the extracting room, equipment and your personal apparel scrupulously clean and hygienic.

Types of  Honey

  • Sorting Combs
  • Uncapping Combs

Extracting Honey

Extraction of honey is done by use of a tangential extractor (hand or electrically operated) on a small scale or a radial extractor equipped with an electrical motor for the large operator. Choose frames of about equal weight for each load to prevent imbalance and rocking of the extractor. Be extremely careful with virgin comb as serious damage can be done by excessive speed.

There are many types of extractors on the market to suit all needs. I prefer to use stainless steel or polythene equipment but future hygiene regulations may require only stainless steel types.

Preparation of Section Crates

There are two types of sections in use

The standard Basswood, with three split sides and
The round plastic type, which bees seem to prefer because there are no corners to fill and the queen will rarely lay in them

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